
Stoned
Jewelry, Obsession, and How Desire Shapes the World
Categories
Nonfiction, Psychology, Art, Science, History, Audiobook, Sociology, Microhistory, Jewellery, Fashion
Content Type
Book
Binding
Hardcover
Year
2015
Publisher
Ecco
Language
English
ASIN
0062334697
ISBN
0062334697
ISBN13
9780062334695
File Download
PDF | EPUB
Stoned Plot Summary
Introduction
Throughout human history, certain objects have wielded influence far beyond their physical dimensions. Among these, precious gems and jewelry stand as perhaps the most fascinating examples - tiny artifacts that have literally changed the course of nations. The stories of these glittering treasures reveal how human desire, ambition, and the perception of value have shaped our world in ways both profound and unexpected. From Manhattan's purchase with glass beads to the diamond marketing campaigns that forever changed our conception of love, jewelry has been far more than mere adornment. These gems have funded wars, sparked revolutions, cemented alliances, and even created entirely new economic systems. By examining these historical moments through the lens of jewelry, we gain unique insights into the psychology of human desire, the mechanics of power, and the often arbitrary nature of value itself. Whether you're a history enthusiast, a lover of fine jewelry, or simply curious about the hidden forces that have shaped our world, these tales of glittering influence will forever change how you view both history and the treasures we hold dear.
Chapter 1: Manhattan's Glass Beads: Value Perception Across Cultures (1626)
In May of 1626, a transaction took place that would later be mythologized as one of history's greatest real estate deals. Dutch colonist Peter Minuit, representing the Dutch West India Company, acquired Manhattan Island from local Native Americans for trade goods valued at approximately 60 guilders - often cited as equivalent to $24 worth of glass beads and trinkets. This seemingly simple exchange reveals complex dynamics of cross-cultural value systems that shaped early colonial encounters. The Manhattan purchase exemplifies how differently Europeans and Native Americans understood value. For the Lenape people, who likely participated in this exchange, the glass beads and metal tools received weren't merely decorative trinkets but represented access to new technologies and trade networks. These items held significant practical and social value within indigenous communities. Glass beads, manufactured in Europe but unavailable in North America, derived their value from their exotic origins and limited supply. Meanwhile, Europeans valued land as property to be owned, bounded, and exploited - a concept foreign to many Native American societies who viewed land as something to be used rather than permanently possessed. This transaction occurred during the early phases of Dutch colonial expansion, when the Netherlands was emerging as a global commercial power. The Dutch West India Company established New Amsterdam as a trading post to capitalize on the lucrative fur trade. Their commercial interests required maintaining workable relationships with indigenous populations who controlled access to beaver pelts and other valuable resources. The beads exchanged weren't just payment but diplomatic currency that established alliances and trading partnerships essential to Dutch commercial ambitions. What makes this exchange particularly fascinating is how it illuminates the concept of "positional goods" - items valued not for practical utility but for their scarcity and social significance. The Lenape likely believed they were simply granting land use rights, not permanent ownership - a concept foreign to their culture. This fundamental misunderstanding about what was being exchanged would have profound consequences as European settlement expanded and power dynamics shifted dramatically. What began as trade between relative equals evolved into systematic displacement of indigenous peoples. The Manhattan purchase serves as a microcosm of broader colonial patterns where initial exchanges, seemingly beneficial to both parties, concealed fundamentally different understandings of what was being traded. This story illuminates what economists call "the scarcity effect" - our tendency to value things based primarily on their rarity rather than intrinsic utility. The beads that bought Manhattan represent a pivotal moment in economic history - the collision of two value systems and the beginning of European commercial dominance in North America.
Chapter 2: De Beers' Diamond Monopoly: Manufacturing Desire and Scarcity (1870s)
The discovery of massive diamond deposits in South Africa in the 1870s threatened to destroy the global diamond market overnight. Prior to this discovery, diamonds were genuinely rare, found primarily in India and Brazil in limited quantities. The world's entire production amounted to just a few pounds annually. The sudden abundance of South African diamonds created a paradox: how could something maintain its value when it was no longer scarce? This question would lead to one of history's most successful marketing manipulations. Cecil Rhodes, an ambitious British businessman who had initially traveled to South Africa for health reasons, recognized both the opportunity and danger presented by these new diamond fields. Between 1870 and 1888, he systematically consolidated control over South African diamond production, eventually forming De Beers Consolidated Mines. This was not merely a business venture but a deliberate strategy to create an artificial monopoly that could control global diamond supply. By restricting output and carefully managing distribution, De Beers maintained the illusion of scarcity despite the actual abundance of diamonds. The true genius of De Beers emerged in the early 20th century when they faced declining demand during the Great Depression. Rather than lowering prices, they partnered with advertising agency N.W. Ayer in 1938 to create demand through psychological manipulation. The resulting campaign transformed cultural perceptions by connecting diamonds to romance and eternal love. The slogan "A Diamond is Forever" - first introduced in 1947 - became one of the most successful advertising phrases in history, simultaneously promoting diamonds as symbols of commitment while discouraging resale that would reveal their actual market value. De Beers' strategy went beyond simple advertising to include sophisticated market manipulation. They established the "sight" system where selected buyers could purchase diamonds only on De Beers' terms. They created grading standards that emphasized the "Four Cs" (cut, clarity, color, and carat), establishing a framework that made diamonds seem objectively valuable rather than arbitrarily priced. For men, advertisements suggested that spending two months' salary on a diamond ring was the appropriate measure of love and success. Through careful psychological manipulation, De Beers created not just demand but necessity where none had existed before. The cultural impact of this manufactured desire was profound. By the 1950s, the diamond engagement ring had become a near-universal expectation in American marriages - a tradition that appeared ancient but was actually the product of deliberate marketing. When De Beers targeted Japan in 1967, a country with no previous tradition of engagement rings, by 1981 over 60% of Japanese brides were wearing diamonds. Today, approximately 80-90% of American brides receive diamond engagement rings, representing billions in annual sales. De Beers didn't just sell diamonds - they sold an idea that became so deeply embedded in culture that few question its origins. The legacy of De Beers' manipulation extends beyond diamonds to demonstrate how desire itself can be manufactured and monetized. Their strategy revealed that value is often psychological rather than intrinsic - a lesson that would influence marketing across industries. The diamond engagement ring stands as perhaps history's most successful example of how perceived value can become real value through collective belief.
Chapter 3: Spanish Emeralds: Wealth That Transformed European Power (1520s)
When Spanish conquistadors first encountered the indigenous civilizations of the Americas in the early 16th century, they were dazzled by the abundance of emeralds adorning Aztec and Inca nobility. These vivid green gems, virtually unknown in Europe at that time, became a powerful symbol of the New World's untold riches. For the Spanish Crown, already engaged in costly "holy wars" across Europe, emeralds seemed like divine providence - confirmation that God favored Spain and its religious campaigns. The quest for emeralds intensified after Hernán Cortés conquered the Aztec Empire in 1521, followed by Francisco Pizarro's subjugation of the Inca Empire a decade later. Spanish soldiers and administrators systematically looted indigenous treasuries, temples, and tombs for their emerald artifacts. The most significant discovery came in the 1530s when conquistadors located the source of these gems in what is now Colombia. The Muzo and Chivor mines contained emeralds of unprecedented quality and size, far superior to the few specimens previously available from Egyptian sources. These emeralds were unlike any previously known, with a vivid green color and unusual fluorescence that made them appear to glow in sunlight. For the native Muisca people of Colombia, these stones were sacred, believed to contain living sparks of divinity. For the Spanish, they represented unimaginable wealth. The human cost of this emerald extraction was devastating. Indigenous mining techniques, which had produced emeralds for centuries with minimal environmental impact, were replaced by brutal forced labor systems. The Spanish implemented the encomienda and later the mita systems, effectively enslaving native populations to work in increasingly dangerous conditions. Thousands died from cave-ins, disease, and exhaustion. The influx of emeralds and other New World treasures transformed the Spanish economy in ways no one anticipated. So much wealth poured into Spain that the country's financial systems couldn't handle it. In the port of Seville in 1551, Spanish officials developed an innovation to manage this unprecedented wealth flow - the juro, the world's first interest-paying government bond. This financial instrument, created to address Spain's cash flow problems, became the ancestor of the modern treasury bill and laid the groundwork for today's global financial system. However, this wealth ultimately proved Spain's undoing. Charles V and his son Philip II believed the money would never stop flowing and spent lavishly on religious wars across Europe. They repeatedly declared bankruptcy while waiting for the next treasure fleet to arrive. The massive influx of wealth caused devastating inflation throughout Spain, while the monarchy's focus on military campaigns prevented investment in productive industries. As Spanish philosopher Paracelsus noted, "The dose makes the poison" - too much of anything, even wealth, can be toxic. By the late 16th century, despite controlling vast territories and resources, Spain's economy was collapsing under inflation, debt, and military overextension. Spain's emerald-fueled rise and fall demonstrates how sudden wealth can distort economic and political decision-making. The empire that emeralds built would soon be eclipsed by nations that developed manufacturing and trade rather than relying on resource extraction. This pattern of resource-rich nations failing to convert temporary wealth into lasting prosperity continues to play out in modern economies dependent on oil, minerals, or other extractive industries.
Chapter 4: Marie Antoinette's Diamond Necklace: Scandal Before Revolution (1785)
In 1785, an elaborate diamond necklace became the catalyst for one of history's most consequential scandals. Originally designed for Louis XV's mistress Madame du Barry, this spectacular piece contained 647 diamonds totaling 2,800 carats, worth approximately 2 million livres - equivalent to the cost of a battleship or small palace. When Louis XV died before its completion, the jewelers Boehmer and Bassenge were left with an extraordinarily expensive creation and no buyer. Their desperate attempts to sell it to the new queen, Marie Antoinette, set in motion a chain of events that would help topple the French monarchy. The scandal erupted when Cardinal de Rohan, seeking royal favor, was duped by a con artist named Jeanne de La Motte into believing that Marie Antoinette secretly desired the necklace but couldn't purchase it publicly. La Motte forged letters from the queen, arranged a midnight meeting with a prostitute posing as Marie Antoinette, and convinced the Cardinal to act as guarantor for the necklace's purchase. Once Rohan acquired the diamonds, La Motte promptly stole them, dismantled the necklace, and sold the individual stones on the London market. When the fraud was discovered, Louis XVI made the catastrophic decision to publicly try those involved rather than handling the matter discreetly. The ensuing trial became a sensation, exposing the decadence of court life to a population already suffering from economic hardship. Though Marie Antoinette had actually refused the necklace multiple times and was entirely innocent of wrongdoing, the public readily believed she had orchestrated the theft. Historian Chantal Thomas noted, "Marie Antoinette became the scapegoat. Everything going wrong was her fault, her responsibility." The scandal emerged at a critical moment in French history. After decades of economic mismanagement, the country was bankrupt. A series of poor harvests had left people starving while the court at Versailles maintained its lavish lifestyle. A newly emerging tabloid press circulated crude political cartoons depicting the queen's supposed excesses and sexual improprieties. The diamond necklace became the perfect symbol of everything wrong with the monarchy - extravagant, corrupt, and indifferent to suffering. Within four years of the scandal, the French Revolution began. When revolutionaries stormed the Bastille in 1789, they were motivated by complex economic and political grievances, but their anger had a human face - that of the queen they called "Madame Deficit." The necklace affair had transformed Marie Antoinette from a somewhat frivolous but essentially harmless queen into a symbol of aristocratic corruption. When she was executed in 1793, many of the charges against her stemmed directly from rumors that originated during the scandal. The diamond necklace that Marie Antoinette never owned or wore had helped seal her fate and, with it, the fate of the French monarchy. This demonstrates how jewelry, beyond its material value, can acquire symbolic power that shapes historical events and public perception in ways that transcend its physical reality. The necklace affair illustrates how objects of luxury can become powerful political symbols during times of social tension, capable of crystallizing abstract grievances into specific narratives that catalyze revolutionary change.
Chapter 5: La Peregrina: The Pearl That Shifted Anglo-Spanish Relations (1580s)
In the mid-sixteenth century, an indigenous pearl diver in the Gulf of Panama discovered one of history's most extraordinary pearls. Perfectly symmetrical, unusually large, and possessing a luminous white glow, this remarkable gem would eventually be named "La Peregrina" - The Wanderer - a fitting title for a jewel that would travel between continents and influence the course of empires. The pearl was immediately recognized as exceptional and promptly sent to Spain as tribute to King Philip II. The pearl's journey through European royal houses began when Philip II gave it to his bride, Queen Mary I of England, as a wedding gift in 1554. This marriage was far more than a romantic union; it represented Spain's attempt to bring England back into the Catholic fold and expand Spanish influence in northern Europe. Mary adored the pearl and wore it prominently in nearly every portrait painted after its arrival. When she died childless in 1558, she specifically willed La Peregrina back to Philip rather than allowing it to pass to her Protestant half-sister Elizabeth. Elizabeth I's ascension to the English throne marked a pivotal moment in the relationship between England and Spain. Though Philip briefly considered marrying Elizabeth to maintain his connection to England, she rejected him and established a firmly Protestant regime. Elizabeth developed an intense desire for La Peregrina after seeing it in her sister's portraits. When denied the pearl, she began authorizing English privateers to raid Spanish ships, specifically instructing them to search for pearls similar to La Peregrina. This seemingly petty jealousy over a jewel evolved into a sophisticated economic warfare strategy. Elizabeth's "sea dogs" - privateers like Francis Drake and John Hawkins - systematically attacked Spanish treasure fleets returning from the Americas. These raids not only enriched England but also undermined Spain's financial ability to wage its expensive religious wars in Europe. Elizabeth's privateering policy represented a revolutionary approach to naval warfare and international relations. Rather than maintaining a large standing navy, she authorized private captains to attack Spanish treasure ships, taking a one-third cut of all plunder for the Crown. The conflict escalated until 1588, when Philip II launched the Spanish Armada to invade England and depose Elizabeth. The defeat of this "Invincible Armada" marked a turning point in European power dynamics. Using the innovative naval tactics developed through years of privateering, the smaller, faster English ships outmaneuvered the massive Spanish galleons. Storms finished what the English began, and less than half the Spanish fleet returned home. This victory established England as a major naval power and opened the door for British commercial expansion worldwide. What began as Elizabeth's personal desire for a beautiful pearl ultimately transformed into a national policy that altered the balance of global power. Elizabeth never obtained La Peregrina, but her pursuit of it helped create something far more valuable - the foundations of British naval supremacy and commercial empire. This illustrates how personal desires at the highest levels of power can cascade into geopolitical consequences that reshape history for centuries to come. La Peregrina's story reveals how symbolic objects can become entangled with religious conflicts, national pride, and imperial ambitions in ways that transcend their material value.
Chapter 6: Fabergé Eggs: From Imperial Treasures to Soviet Funding (1920s)
In 1885, Tsar Alexander III commissioned the first imperial Easter egg from jeweler Peter Carl Fabergé as a gift for his wife, Empress Maria Feodorovna. This began a tradition that would span 33 years and result in 52 extraordinary eggs, each containing a "surprise" - a miniature mechanical marvel hidden inside. These eggs represented the pinnacle of luxury in the Romanov court, which was known for unparalleled opulence even by royal standards. The eggs combined precious metals, rare gems, and revolutionary techniques in enameling and mechanical engineering that have never been fully replicated. The Fabergé workshop itself was remarkably progressive for its time. Carl Fabergé employed hundreds of craftspeople from across the Russian Empire, organizing them into semi-autonomous workshops led by master craftsmen. Unlike most businesses of the era, Fabergé shared credit with his designers, paid fair wages, and created a collaborative environment that fostered innovation. His workshop produced over 150 shades of enamel when competitors could manage only a handful, and developed techniques for creating multiple colors of gold that remain mysterious to modern jewelers. As the Romanov dynasty entered its final years, the contrast between the imperial court's extravagance and the suffering of ordinary Russians became increasingly stark. By 1917, Russia was exhausted by World War I, facing food shortages, and seething with revolutionary sentiment. When the Bolshevik Revolution erupted, Lenin encouraged the masses to "loot the looters," resulting in the widespread destruction of aristocratic treasures. However, the imperial Fabergé eggs were specifically preserved by Lenin's orders - a decision that would later prove financially crucial for the struggling Soviet state. In the aftermath of the revolution, the new Soviet government faced international isolation and desperate economic conditions. To raise hard currency, they began selling off imperial treasures to Western buyers. Enter Armand Hammer, an American businessman with unusual access to Soviet leadership. Beginning in 1927, Hammer orchestrated the sale of numerous Fabergé eggs and other imperial treasures to wealthy Americans, with proceeds flowing back to fund Soviet industrialization programs. Hammer marketed these objects brilliantly, creating a mythology around Fabergé that appealed to American fascination with fallen Russian royalty. The most avid collectors of these Soviet-sold treasures included some of America's most prominent capitalists - the very people who publicly denounced Communism. Malcolm Forbes, Henry Ford, and Marjorie Merriweather Post all purchased imperial treasures, unwittingly helping finance the regime they opposed. This irony reached its peak when American department stores began selling "authentic Russian treasures" with Soviet approval, effectively turning symbols of imperial excess into funding sources for Communist industrialization. The journey of the Fabergé eggs from imperial Easter gifts to Soviet funding mechanisms illustrates the malleable nature of value and symbolism. Objects created to celebrate autocratic power became tools for building its ideological opposite. Today, these eggs remain among the most valuable art objects in the world, with individual eggs selling for over $30 million. Their value derives not just from their craftsmanship and materials, but from their extraordinary history - tangible links to a vanished world and silent witnesses to one of history's great transformations.
Chapter 7: Mikimoto's Pearls: Japan's Entry into Global Markets (1893)
When Kokichi Mikimoto successfully cultivated the world's first perfectly spherical pearls in the early 20th century, he accomplished far more than a scientific breakthrough - he helped transform Japan's position in the global economy. Born in 1858, the same year that Commodore Matthew Perry's "Black Ships" forced Japan to end its centuries of isolation, Mikimoto's life paralleled his country's dramatic transition from feudal society to modern industrial power. Japan's forced opening to the West in 1853-1858 created an existential crisis for the nation. After witnessing the technological superiority of Western powers, Japanese leaders recognized they faced a stark choice: modernize rapidly or become another colonized Asian nation. The Meiji Restoration of 1868 initiated an unprecedented national transformation, dismantling the feudal system and embracing Western science, industry, and military organization. This period was characterized by the slogan "Fukoku kyōhei" - "Enrich the country, strengthen the military." Mikimoto, the son of a noodle maker, embodied the new social mobility of Meiji Japan. In pre-modern Japan, he would have been permanently confined to his hereditary class. Instead, he pursued his obsession with pearls, conducting thousands of experiments to discover how to induce oysters to create perfect spherical gems. After years of failure and financial hardship, in 1893 his wife Ume discovered their first successful cultured pearls - half-round pearls attached to the oyster shell. It would take another twelve years of experimentation before Mikimoto produced perfectly round pearls in 1905. The pearl cultivation process Mikimoto perfected represented a revolutionary fusion of nature and technology. By surgically implanting a nucleus wrapped in oyster mantle tissue into a living oyster, then carefully tending the oysters in protected bays, Mikimoto created a sustainable, scalable method of producing gems that had previously been rare accidents of nature. This achievement was not merely commercial but scientific - even Thomas Edison later declared it "one of the wonders of the world" and something "which is supposed to be biologically impossible." When Mikimoto's cultured pearls entered the global market in the 1920s, they triggered a revolution in the pearl industry. European and American pearl dealers, who had controlled the natural pearl trade for centuries, attempted to discredit cultured pearls as "fake." Mikimoto fought back by educating consumers about the cultivation process and staging dramatic publicity stunts - most famously burning thousands of imperfect pearls to demonstrate his commitment to quality. By 1935, there were 350 pearl farms in Japan producing ten million cultured pearls annually. The cultured pearl industry became a powerful symbol of Japan's successful modernization. Unlike other Japanese industries that initially copied Western products, pearl cultivation represented genuine Japanese innovation. It combined traditional knowledge of local waters with cutting-edge biological research to create something entirely new. Moreover, it transformed a luxury previously available only to royalty and the ultra-wealthy into something accessible to the growing middle class worldwide. Mikimoto achieved his stated dream of "adorning the necks of all women around the world with pearls," while simultaneously helping Japan establish itself as a modern economic power capable of competing with Western nations on its own terms.
Summary
Throughout history, jewels have functioned as far more than mere decorative objects - they have been instruments of power, catalysts for social transformation, and mirrors reflecting humanity's deepest desires and conflicts. From Manhattan's glass beads to Fabergé's imperial eggs, these precious objects have repeatedly shaped the course of history by mediating relationships between cultures, classes, and competing value systems. The recurring pattern across these stories reveals how objects acquire value not primarily from their physical properties but from the meanings humans project onto them and the social structures that determine their distribution. These historical episodes offer profound insights for understanding our contemporary relationship with valuable objects. First, they remind us that value itself is largely a social construction rather than an intrinsic quality - whether diamonds maintained by artificial scarcity or pearls transformed from rare accidents to cultivated products. Second, they demonstrate how desire for beautiful objects can drive innovation, as with Mikimoto's pearl cultivation, while simultaneously fueling exploitation and conflict. Finally, they suggest that our relationship with material possessions reveals our deepest priorities and vulnerabilities, whether Elizabeth I's pearl-driven foreign policy or Marie Antoinette's diamond necklace scandal. By examining these jeweled turning points in history, we gain not just insight into the past but a more nuanced understanding of how material objects continue to shape our economic systems, social hierarchies, and personal identities today.
Best Quote
“Diamonds aren’t forever. Diamond engagement rings have only been a “necessary luxury” for about eighty years. We take the tradition of a diamond engagement ring for granted, as if it were as old as marriage itself. It’s not. In fact, it’s only about as old as the microwave oven.” ― Aja Raden, Stoned: Jewelry, Obsession, and How Desire Shapes the World
Review Summary
Strengths: The book is praised for its witty and easy-to-read style, as well as its ability to impart interesting historical facts. It is well-researched and covers a wide range of topics related to the history of jewelry, from the use of glass beads by the Dutch to the DeBeers diamond monopoly.\nOverall Sentiment: Enthusiastic\nKey Takeaway: The book offers a breezy and engaging exploration of the history of jewelry, highlighting significant events and cultural shifts, such as the DeBeers diamond engagement ring myth and the diamond necklace scandal. It is appreciated for its informative and entertaining narrative.
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Stoned
By Aja Raden









